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Sometimes you just have to wait patiently for a wish to come true. For me, it was this trip to Tibet, to step into the unexplored region of Asia. Captivated by the kindness of Tibetans, surprised by the Chinese medicine which represents the Chinese culture, and absolutely fascinated by the unchanging traditions being passed on for thousands of years, the trip in fact turned out to be more than I expected.
What I focus on is the "origin" of the Chinese culture. I chose subjects which are heavily bonded with the lives of people, such as "terraced fields", "Jingdezhen porcelain", "Shaoxing wine", and "Pu-erh tea". I feel I must record and pass on these vanishing-by-degree legacies, as to fulfill my mission given to a Chinese photographer.
A greater part of Tibet is at 4,000 meters altitude, a district described as "the roof of the world." It is the origin of both the Yellow River and the Yangtze River, where their first drops are born. I've planned this trip and researched on Chinese medicine for the last three years, and in the summer of 2003, I set my very first step in Tibet. It happened to be the season of the two major festivals, "Popantanko" and "Namtzo", performed only once in 12 years.
I spent most of my photographing time at these festivals, focusing on expressions of the thousands of religious people in vivid folk costumes.
At the Popantanko festival, prayers walk around the holy stone, where a goddess from the sky is said to have landed. The Namtzo festival is performed at the lake of the world's highest altitude, 5000 meters. Here, people pray for the god of water and walk around the holy lake. Walking around a holy symbol is an expression of earnest praying. The idea is, the more you circle around, the more you show faith. As I photograph them circling around, I felt devout and suddenly realized that their earnest "mind" to pray, believe, and wish, moves not only a man's heart but could move almost anything.
The "mind" is a key to my photography as well. As I search for beautiful Tibetan scenery with the local guide staff, they eventually start to understand my photography image. Some photos were taken at places of their recommendation. If I fall asleep in the car, they will wake me up to see the scenery of my choice.
In spite of photographing at a land of many restrictions, I was able to capture precious moments which no one else could have taken. I owe it all to this "mind" sharing.
With the support of the Photographers' Association of Beijing and Tibet, my trip started from Lhasa airport, with a detailed schedule of traveling 3,600 kilometers in 20 days.
The first stop was the Shiutan festival being held at the Ganten temple. Here I saw the Thangka, a grand Buddhist painting (40x60m), exhibited only once a year. I was able to photograph the vivid red and yellow ornaments, the people in brilliant costumes, and their earnest expressions of receiving happiness by touching the Thangka. The next day, we moved onto the Nagchu festival, the nomad's horse race festival.followed by the Popantanko festival and the Namtzo festival, both performed once in 12-year's cycle.
The"Shoton festival (also known as yogurt festival)" was the most magnificent among the five traditional festivals I visited. What was overwhelming is that 300,000 people gather for just one particular hour, the only hour of the Thangka exhibition. It is just impressing to see how god lives in every Tibetans' heart, because people gather here not just from the neighborhood, but from miles away by cars, by airplane from Sichuan or Yunnan, and some even walk here spending a month or two, just for the exhibition.
Before dawn we left our camp, heading for the Shoton festival. Still 4 a.m., we see nothing but shining stars, yet I noticed some people walking in the morning darkness and heading for the festival. It was a sight from which this moment, I was to be continuously impressed by their earnestness in what they believe. At the festival, we waited for the exhibition among the people.
Once the Thangka is exhibited, people pray for himself and his family and receive happiness by touching the Thangka. One hour is never enough for all 30,000 people to touch the Thangka, but even after the exhibition hour is over, prayers continue to walk towards the place where the Thangka was, so that they can feel the god closer, and send their wishes closer. They say that one sight of the Thangka, even from far away, fills their heart with good fortune. I am not a religious person myself, but I was inspired as I almost recognized the god in the atmosphere, and found myself unconsciously photographing this sight.
One of the important, and probably the hardest asceticism of Tibetan Buddhism is "throwing oneself on the ground (five body parts on the ground)." Literally, it is a practice of putting one's whole body (head, both arms and legs) on the ground to offer both the body and soul to the god. Thus, my asceticism to pursue the art of photography must be to sacrifice my body and soul to each picture.
The kindness of people was what captivated me the most, during this Tibet trip. Local people serve out a cup of butter-tea to people heading to the festivals. They served a cup to me, a tourist, as well. They are by no means wealthy, and even though there might not be enough tea for themselves, they kindly treat others. They do not spare their kindness to others, and it is their virtue and their established manner to treat guests.
Living in today's world of modernization, I was reminded of the kindness that people once had, which we tend to forget. Time changes, and it is wonderful to develop new things, yet there are precious treasures we must preserve, a soul we must succeed, and traditions that must be passed on to the following generations. Kindness in the Tibetans' heart is surely one of them, and they are definitely the virtues I wish to record in my photography.
Touched by the beauty in the and discovering the nature's beauty, I strongly feel I must continue on photographing the origin of the Chinese culture. This trip turned out to be a trip to rediscover my origin as a photographer. There is still so much left in Tibet that I want to photograph, I am about to start planning for the next trip.
